After the brutal, massive floods in Nepal that tragically claimed so many lives, I returned to the World Heritage Site of Bhaktapur after nearly four years. For many reasons, this city has always been my absolute favorite among all the places I have ever visited. Yet, this particular visit made me fall in love with it all over again—even more deeply than before. In Bhaktapur, Gai Jatra (locally known in Nepal Bhasa as Sa: Paru) is celebrated with a unique, highly energetic flair that sets it entirely apart from the rest of the Kathmandu Valley. While its core purpose remains...